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The History of the American Colony Hotel Part Three - War and Reinvention - 1914 to 1967
This is the third and final entry in a GoJerusalem.com series on the history of
the American Colony Hotel. The outbreak of World War I forced the American Colony's members to focus on humanitarian initiatives, and the shadow of conflict hovered over the Colony and Jerusalem itself for decades afterward. The Colony itself could not weather the storm intact, but from its ashes rose the American Colony Hotel.
For
many, World War I is associated with images of intractable trench warfare in
pockmarked European moonscapes, newly invented chemical weapons and tanks
rewriting war's playbook for the rest of the new century. Not as many remember
that the war was also the last gasp of the withered Ottoman Empire, and that
one of the chief motivations for the Allied powers was the opportunity to pvy
up the Empire's remains, extending the grasp of European colonialism into a
formerly impenetrable, and suddenly quite valuable, region.
As by the dawn of the 20th century the Ottoman Empire was thoroughly
impoverished and technologically backward, with most of its citizens locked
into the same subsistence existence their ancestors had toiled through for
centuries, the arrival of modern warfare on Ottoman shores was simply
devastating. Jerusalem, essentially a minor and neglected regional capital
within the Ottoman political sphere, suffered terribly. All Ottoman citizens in
Palestine of good fighting condition were immediately drafted into the army,
leaving precious few to tend fields that already barely yielded enough to feed
the populace. An Allied blockade of the Palestinian coast stopped the import of
food and provisions. What little was left over was earmarked for the hungry
army. And then, in 1915, an epic plague of locusts tore across the region,
destroying almost every edible crop. As malnutrition set in among the populace,
a typhus epidemic began raging across the region, killing those who had so far
managed to survive starvation and war.
It was against this savage backdrop that the American Colony truly proved its
worth to the people of Jerusalem. Funded by donations from benefactors in the
United States, the members of the Colony established soup kitchens at multiple
locations in the city, feeding upwards of 2000 starving Jerusalemites every
day. They also opened a lace- and dress-making School, in partnership with the
Christian Herald, where hundreds of women kept their families afloat by
exporting wares to the United States.
At the request of the Ottoman
government, The American Colony Photo Department served as official
photographers and documentarians of the war efforts in Palestine. Having proved
so valuable - and indeed, performing functions the Ottoman government had
itself proved incapable of - the Colony was allowed to continue its
philanthropic efforts even after America joined the Allies, its members too
vital to public survival in Jerusalem to be accused of double loyalties.
The British lines finally reached Jerusalem in December 1917. By this time,
Ottoman infrastructure had entirely collapsed, and in partnership with the Red
Cross and the Red Crescent, the American Colony had assumed control of the
city's military hospitals, treating wounded Turkish soldiers and European POWs
alike. The Turkish governor formally surrendered to General Allenby with a
white sheet taken from one of the Colony's hospital beds.
With the establishment of the British Mandate after 1917, Palestine became part
of the Commonwealth, and Jerusalem and the Colony in particular became the
center of untold political intrigue as the British eagerly established
themselves in the Middle East. While guests ranging from General Allenby to
T. E. Lawrence (of Arabia) wandered its halls charting the course of the Empire,
the Colony members continued their philanthropic work, establishing, together
with the Christian Herald, a girls' orphanage for WWI orphans in 1919, and The
Anna Spafford Baby Home, Jerusalem's first well-baby clinic, in 1926, where Jerusalem's
expectant Arab mothers received pre- and post-natal care.
Conflict, of course, soon reared its head again, as the Jewish and Arab
populations of the Mandate began to attack each other, and their British
overlords, in earnest over who would control Palestine. Conflict escalated
until 1947, when riots yielded to full-out war across Jerusalem and the
country. The American Colony became a Red Cross-affiliated clearing house for
the wounded, but as Jewish underground units traded heavy fire with the
Jordanian Arab Legion across Jerusalem, the Colony was inadvertently shelled 21
times, and one member was killed.
When the armistice lines were drawn, Jerusalem had been split in two between
the new state of Israel and Jordan, with the American Colony falling on the
Jordanian side, only a short walk away from the heavily fortified Seam Line.
Unfortunately, after so thoroughly insinuating itself into the social fabric of
Jerusalem, the Colony began to fray. As if mirroring the newly pided
Jerusalem, internal pisions within the Colony's membership rose to the
surface and splintered the collective. Founder Anna Spafford passed away in
1923, and by 1930, the American Colony as a religious collective was no more,
but the compound remained in the hands of the Spafford family's descendants,
who converted it into a full-time hotel, popular with tourists visiting
Jordanian Jerusalem.
The 1967 Six Day War, which unified Jerusalem under Israeli control, again took
its toll on what was now the American Colony Hotel, damaging its buildings with
mortar fire. But rebuilding was prompt, and the Colony quickly established
itself as the premier hotel in Jerusalem for journalists, artists, intellectuals
and diplomats of all faiths, nationalities and political persuasions - and as
an island of neutrality in Jerusalem, employing Jews and Arabs and assiduously
avoiding displays of political allegiance to any local power. As such, it
became a favored ground for political debate in the Israeli-Palestinian
conflict, with UN mediators and various international diplomats involved in the
peace process holding functions there.
Today you'll still find echoes of the past in the American Colony Hotel,
whether in the suites that preserve its original Ottoman furnishings or in the
bar inside a converted cellar where the Colony's residents once carried out
their daily work. But in the peaceful coexistence of staff and guests of
various faiths, and in the earnest discussions of the diplomats and
intellectuals that make to the hotel their home in Jerusalem, you may also
catch a glimpse of a future marked by coexistence.
The following video contains a series of rare images of the American Colony's history, from Horatio Spafford's original draft of It Is Well With My Soul to pictures of the Colony's members hard at work:
The American Colony in Jerusalem Collection and Archive - a formidable trove of documents, photographs and art objects - offers an indispensible record of life at the American Colony over the years and of life in the Middle East from the 1880s through the 1950s. The Archive is scheduled to open to the general public on the American Colony Hotel campus in late 2011.
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