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Slichot and the city
Jerusalem's mix of ancient and modern, religious and secular, mystic and mundane is never more apparent than in the weeks leading up to the High Holidays. In most of the world, the High Holiday experience begins with the Jewish New Year, Rosh Hashanah, but in Jerusalem it begins the month before, when pious residents begin waking in the middle of the night to chant slichot - a penitential mix of poetry and prayer.
Lately, these worshipers have been joined by throngs of curious onlookers. In fact the slichot tour has become one of Jerusalem's most popular attractions, with hundreds of tourists flocking to the city's synagogues and holy sites throughout the month. Two of the most popular destinations are the Old City, where visitors can experience slichot at the Western Wall, and the Nachlaot neighborhood in western Jerusalem with its dense mix of charming alleyways and ancient synagogues.
There's even a repentance-themed tour that's specifically tailored Christian tourists, taking place on September 14.
According to David Gal Or, whose company, Maslulim, conducts a number of tours throughout the month, "These tours attract a mixture of people - some are searchers, looking to connect, not necessarily to their roots, but to Judaism in general. It has become a trend, like Kabbalah or the trend of [Israeli pop stars] singing traditional Jewish songs. There is a greater recognition among secular Israelis of the Jewish world and this renewed interest in slichot is a part of it."
"At the same time, there are many who are interested in these tours from an anthropological perspective. Both groups often attend the tours more than once, each time bringing with them new people, friends, family members, co-workers. When I conduct tours I try to show a mix of secular and religious Jerusalem...passing from the pubs of the Nachalat Shiva neighborhood to the surrounding synagogues and eventually the Western Wall."
Tours on offer this year include those of Reshut Hateva ve-Haganim which will be offering slichot tours throughout September of the Old City and surrounding neighborhoods, culminating with shofar blowing at the Kotel and those conducted by the Tower of David Museum, whose premises also offers visitors a panoramic night-time view of the city. The Tower of David tours begin on August 20th and run throughout most of September.
These tour groups are likely to bump into dozens of others on their midnight runs as many of the city's cultural institutions offer their own slichot tours and events. For those who prefer the armchair version of the tour, Beit Avi Chai will be offering their own no walking required option on August 20th which, in keeping with the Beit Avi Chai tradition, will combine a panel discussion with a slichot themed musical performance.
While most of the tours, and all of the prayers are in Hebrew, English speaking Jerusalemites need not feel closed off from this experience as many groups offer English-language bookings as well.
Photo of the Nachalat Shiva Synagogue courtesy of Eran Gal-Or.
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